A Tour de Mexico at De Noche La Fondita
It’s not often that I come across a restaurant so full of soul and authenticity. It’s even rarer to get to meet the creator behind such a project. Such was the case last weekend when my girlfriend and I were looking for “upscale Mexican food” in preparation for a trip we’ll soon be taking to New Mexico. Indeed, New Mexico is not “Mexico,” but our impending travels do have us spun up on all things peppers, corn, pollo, and the like. Luckily, luck was on our side when we found an opening at De Noche La Fondita and somehow snuck in (due to a cancellation). But first, a bit of history.
In November 2020, entrepreneur Angel Medina , executive chef Lauro Romero, and executive pastry chef Olivia Bartruff launched their inaugural gastronomic venture, República. The restaurant followed a dual approach to dining, serving homestyle Mexican dishes such as memelitas and quesadillas Bar Comala, a speakeasy-esque cocktail lounge found in the back of the De Noche space.
After dining at De Noche I asked to take a picture of the chefs in their open kitchen. You can see the warmth and pride in their smiles. What a great place! Image Courtesy: Dan Meyers
The De Noche team takes great care and precision in all aspects of its back-of-house practices and menu offerings. Their commitment to authenticity shines through at this new casual restaurant, which retains a distinctly Mexican identity. Unlike other eateries, they forego burritos and chips with guac in favor of hearty mole and sopa. To experience a glimpse into Romero and Medina's childhood in Mexico, request a counter seat where you can watch the labor-intensive process of tortilla-making, where all corn is meticulously nixtamalized and ground by hand.
Some highlights from our meal:
This was how things started, and wow, what a start! These handmade tortillas with the best darn frijoles I’ve ever tasted…all dressed up with your choice of salsa. Amazing. Image: Dan Meyers
We ordered the entire tasting menu (recommended). This dish, Tostadas de Atun, was our favorite. Comprised of maiz, alabacore (tuna), salsa tatemada, and lime, well….it’s a must. Image: Dan Meyers
This is not your average quesadilla. In fact, the Quesadilla Oaxaquena, s actually comprised of three types of maiz: white, blue, and yellow, and features quesillo, chile morita, and peanuts. Image: Dan Meyers
This was my second favorite dish, the Tacos Yucatecos, which featured maiz, pork, frijoles, and pickled onion. Simple yet sooooo good. Image: Dan Meyers
The “Mole del Dia,” which (if you don’t speak Spanish) translates to “Mole of the Day.” This labor of love had its expected notes of chocolate but was oh so elevated. As tasty as it was pretty. Image: Dan Meyers
I had more photos to share but part of the fun of dining at De Noche at La Fondita is the exciting presentation and bits of story you get as each plate is delivered. So, I won’t spoil it all here. That said, we were so impressed with this restaurant and its clear and unabashed nature of providing an authentic (yet elevated) experience of the food the creators grew up with. I’ll never look at a taco the same after dining here, and I’m betting you won’t either if you get the chance to nab a reservation.
Next up? Republica. Yes, while dining at De Noche, one of the creators, Angel Medina, came by our table and spoke with us. An immediately likable guy, Angel’s passion was so clear that all I can do is root for him. He invited us to try Republica, and that is something we’ll take him up on soon.
Here now is a link to the several establishments (De Noche La Fondita and Republica included) that Angel and his partners are behind. What a great, collective effort and a true enhancement to the Portland food scene!