Unsung Pizza Hero
When it comes to pizza, well, Portland has rocketed onto the international map. Heck, Bloomberg News just declared Portland to be the top pizza city in the U.S. Wow, that’s quite the title. And after consuming over 400 pizzas across the country, Bloomberg’s Modernist Pizza authors Nathan Myhrvold and Francisco Migoya, stated their claim in simple terms:
“To us, it means there are multiple choices of great pizzerias, ideally in different styles. Chris Bianco, in Phoenix, might make sensational pizzas, for instance, but he’s one guy. I wouldn’t call it a great pizza city. Portland pizzerias, on the other hand, offer genius in multiple styles, from New York-style pies at Scottie’s Pizza Parlor to Neapolitan-style at Nostrana and creative, ingredient-driven pizzas at Lovely’s Fifty Fifty.”
So variety is clearly key. And this makes sense. Who wants the same slice of za, day in and day out? Vary it up. Classic NY-style to Sicilian. Maybe Chicago deep dish on a cold, winter’s night? But alas, with all this focus on Portland and its wonderful choices of pizza…some of the very best do get missed. And that’s today’s focus: a pizza parlor done in the classic, Neapolitan style that should be in the headlines…Mt. Hood Brewing’s Tillikum Station. This place is not only unique in infrastructure and decor (it utilizes several passenger train cars for seating), the pizzas here make you think of a desert island…in that if you were stuck on one you might be selecting this particular pizza as your one and only. It’s that darn good.
I was a bit remiss in not getting a picture of this wood-fired pizza before, well, eating a lot of it, but let’s just say I couldn’t hold back. So darn good. Image Courtesy: Dan Meyers
When I had the pleasure of eating at Tillikum Station last week I was blown away. I had to meet the chef and get his or her story. I wasn’t disappointed. Enter Chris Flanagan…venerable pizza master and a true, unsung pizza hero. But let’s here it from Chris directly as to why his pizzas are just so darn special.
“We use simple ingredients in a very traditional process. Every dough is 72 hours old, with 24 hours sitting at room temperature and then 24 hours in cold storage, proofing the dough. This results in a chewy, soft and highly digestible crust - exactly what a Neapolitan pizza should be. In fact, the gluten we use breaks down over just 3 days. Thus, we get a good number of people that have a resistance to gluten enjoying our pizzas. As long as folks aren’t celiac, they can enjoy our pizza. Of course, we also offer a gluten free dough. But in the end, I do this because it makes me happy. To see people enjoying what I craft, and coming back again and again, that’s what it’s all about. ”
Unsung pizza hero and chef Chris Flanagan. Churning out one amazing pizza pie after another. Get there for yours! Image Courtesy: Dan Meyers
Surely you’ve heard of (or even tasted) a pizza from those headline grabbers Ken’s Artisan, Apizza Scholls, Lovelies and Nostrana. But have you tried Tillikum Station’s Neapolitan? If so, you’re one of the lucky ones. If not, it’s truly time to head over. Why Chris Flanagan and crew haven’t been the ones getting the top headlines does confound me. Maybe it’s who you know? Well, I just listen to my stomach…and it screams Mt. Hood Brewing’s Tillikum Station.
Outside Mt. Hood Brewing’s Tillikum Station. The two train cars are part of your choices for sitting/eating. Image Courtesy: Timberline Lodge
Tying into the Railroad: Tillikum Station
When I visited Mt. Hood Brewing’s Tillikum Station I could sense a great deal of history. What was the deal with the train cars? Why was Richard Kohnstamm of Timberline lore on the wall? I inquired and got the scoop…and it’s told very well in the wall photo. Enjoy the story below. I’m sure it will provide even more motivation for a visit.
This story makes Mt. Hood Brewing’s Tillikum Station even more special. Enjoy. Image Courtesy: Dan Meyers
Inside one of the train cars at the restaurant. Too much fun. Image Courtesy: USA Restaurants